Dark spots: sun spots vs age spots vs PIH — what type do you have and what actually fades them
5 min read
Not all dark spots are the same. The ingredient that fades a sun spot is not necessarily best for PIH or melasma. Knowing which type you have changes everything about how you treat it.
The main types
Sun spots
Caused by UV exposure. Well-defined, flat, on sun-exposed areas. Respond well to vitamin C, retinoids, and alpha-arbutin. SPF is the most important treatment.
PIH
Left by inflammation — acne, eczema, razor bumps. Best treated with niacinamide, azelaic acid, and tranexamic acid.
Melasma
Hormonal — triggered by estrogen. Symmetric patches on upper lip, cheeks, forehead. Tranexamic acid is the most effective topical. Strict sun avoidance is critical — even brief UV causes significant worsening.
The ingredient breakdown
Alpha-arbutin
Inhibits tyrosinase. Effective for sun spots and PIH. Gentler than hydroquinone. The Ordinary Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA is a popular affordable option.
Kojic acid
Inhibits melanin production. Good for sun spots and general brightening. Can be irritating at higher concentrations — patch test first.
Retinoids
Speed up cell turnover, bringing fresh cells to the surface. Work for most types of dark spots. Start at 0.025-0.05% and increase slowly to avoid irritation that can worsen PIH.
SPF is the treatment
Every dark spot type is worsened by UV. You can spend $200 on serums and undo progress in a few unprotected days outdoors. SPF 30+ broad-spectrum every morning is not optional — it is part of the protocol.
// bottom line
Sun spots → vitamin C + alpha-arbutin. PIH → niacinamide + azelaic acid. Melasma → tranexamic acid + strict sun avoidance. All of them need SPF or nothing else will work.
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